"Mwachidule, mwachindunji, osati demokarasi ndi okwera mtengo kwambiri" - ndi momwe amodzi mwa mafano otchuka kwambiri a mafashoni Jil Sander, amene Mlengi wake ndi Heidemarie Zilin Zander, wodziwika bwino monga Jil Sander, amadziwika. Zitsanzo za mtundu uwu zakhala zikuganiziridwa kwa zaka zambiri ndi amayi a dziko lonse lapansi muyezo wa kukongola ndi kuphweka.
Jill Sander ndi wodabwitsa kwambiri wa mafashoni, wopanga mafashoni apamwamba kwambiri, mkazi wovekedwa mwachidule komanso mwakugwiritsira ntchito, akumugwiritsa ntchito ufulu wosankha mwachindunji. Iye sanaope kuika mutu wa Prada Holding. Chisankho chake chinayambitsa kutaya mtundu wake ndi kuchoka ku Fashion House yake. Ndipo ntchito ya Gili siidatuluke msanga kwa kutalika kwa chizungu. Koma za chirichonse mu dongosolo.
Ntchito Jill Sander
Jill anabadwira m'tawuni yaing'ono ya ku Germany ndipo analeredwa ndi amayi amodzi. Ntchito yake ya mafashoni, sanayambe ndi internship mu Fashion House yotchuka, osati ndi "chimake" cha abwenzi ake. Jill, monga German wakuganiza bwino, adakonzekera masitepe ambiri a ntchito yake yamtsogolo. Anaganiza zokhala "khitchini" ya mafashoni ndi kumvetsa bwino zinthu zonse zandale za ndale. Jill Sander anayamba kukonzekera kukwera kwake kumalo ozungulira dziko lapansi, akugwira ntchito monga wothandizira mkonzi wa magazini ya glossy Brigitte ku Hamburg ndi American McCalls. Koma Jill sankafuna kugwirizanitsa moyo wake ndi zolemba mafashoni. Iye anali kuyaka ndi chilakolako chodzipanga yekha, komanso kuti asatsutse zolengedwa za anthu ena. Sizongopanda kanthu kuti iye amaphunzira nsalu kunyumba, ndiyeno ku yunivesite ya California.
Ali ndi zaka 25, Jill anatsegulira msika wake woyamba ku Hamburg pansi pa chizindikiro cha Jil Sander, momwe zinthu zoyamba zopangidwa ndi mwana waluso zinagulitsidwa. Chiwonetsero cha mndandanda woyamba wa Jill Sander chinachitikira ku Paris, ndipo patapita chaka ku Milan. Anthu ambiri otchuka, otopa kwambiri ndi madiresi oposa, adadabwa kwambiri ndi Jill Sander, yemwe ali ndi chidwi komanso chachikazi. Ndipo kalembedwe ka wojambulayo kanali kosiyana ndi mizere yosavuta ndi mawonekedwe, omwe anali okongola kwambiri omwe ankaphatikizidwa ndi nsalu zabwino kwambiri. Anatsimikizira kuti dziko lonse lapansi loti prostate lidulidwe likhoza kuoneka lokongola kwambiri, ndipo mfundo zonse zokhudzana ndi chiphuphu chomwecho chimakhala chosasangalatsa. Otsutsa amachitcha dzina lakuti Jill "chachikulu cha minimalism." Koma Jill adasiyanasiyana osati pogawidwa ndi minimalism, adasinthira mafashoni, "kumugwedeza" ndi mawonekedwe a anyezi.
Kumayambiriro kwa zaka za m'ma 90, Jill Sander anagonjetsa makampani opanga mafashoni - Paris, kumene adatsegula malo ake oyamba pa malo otchedwa Avenue Montaigne. Panthawi imene Jill anali atapeza kale Jil Sander Cosmetics ndi Jil Sander Leder. Anakhalanso wopanga mafilimu woyamba ku Germany yemwe ankaimira ndalama zake osati kudziko lakwawo, koma pa dziko lonse lapansi lachikhalidwe - Milan. Zolinga zake zamakono, zosiyana ndi zomveka bwino, zinachititsa kuti Jill akhale mmodzi mwa anthu opanga maiko onse padziko lapansi. Pakati pa zaka za m'ma 90 ku US, Jill Sander adapatsidwa mphoto ya Gulu la Mafilimu, ndipo kenaka adafutukula zomwe adazichita pogwiritsa ntchito zovala za amuna ndi mafuta onunkhira.
Kusintha mu nyumba ya mafashoni Jil Sander
Kutha kwa zaka za m'ma 90 kunali chiyambi cha chisokonezo chachikulu mu Fashion House ya Jil Sander, pamene mtengo wolamulira ku Prada Group. Koma kusuntha kotereku kunalibe kupambana. Pasanathe chaka, Jill anayamba kusagwirizana ndi Patrizio Bertelli, mtsogoleri wa Prada. Zonsezi zinayamba ndikuti Patrizio Bertelli adauza kuti Jill agwiritse ntchito nsalu zopangira zosavuta, ndikuwonetsa ntchito zake. Mwachidziwitso, Jil Sander sakanatha kuvomereza izi. Kenaka adafuna "kusunthira" kupanga zovala m'mayiko otchipa. Wodzikuza ndi dzina lake lachabechabe lachabechabe, Sander sakanatha kupulumuka. Iye anavula chitseko ndipo sanapite kwina kulikonse. Kusonkhanitsa kwa autumn-yozizira 2000-2001, monga aliyense ankaganiza, anali wotsiriza wotengedwa ndi Gili.
Koma patapita zaka zingapo, Jill Sander anaitanidwa kuti abwerere kunyumba kwake. Mwachiwonekere, popanda Mlengi wa chizindikirocho, zinthu sizinapite bwino kwambiri. Chotsatira chotsatira chinakondweretsa gulu lonse la mafashoni. Wopenyayo anawomba misozi akuimirira! Koma, mwatsoka, Jil Sander adabwerera mokondwera sanapite nthawi yaitali. Iye sanathe kupeza chinenero chofanana ndi Prada Group, ndipo anagonjanso.
Panthawiyi, mtunduwo umakhala moyo, koma uli ndi moyo wodziimira, ukukhazikitsa miyambo yapamwamba yopanga minimalism yomwe anayambitsa chizindikiro ichi. Ndipo Gili Sander yekha adakakhala mumthunzi wa Festo House ndipo akudzinenera mwakhama zonse zoyenera. Mwinamwake ngati Jill Sander sanali atatopa ndi zovuta zonsezi ndipo sanasiye yekha, chirichonse chikanakhala chosiyana ... Koma iye anagwiritsa ntchito mwayi wake wosankha mwachindunji.
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
